点评:This is where I climbed Chameleon Peak, to see the stunning mosaic of colors and textures found in the vast Tsaranoro Valley below.
The sign at the start of the trail said it would take six hours to complete so that’s what I prepared for mentally, not knowing what was ahead of me. Tonga, my guide was a very young man but knew the plants, animals, and trail very well. The trail is 9.3 km long and you ascend 620 meters. I am not a climber, but a strong hiker (in my late 60’s) and the hike took less than three hours to traverse this near lunar landscape – easily less than ½ the time posted.
The views from there were stunning and I wished I had the time to climb the famous Pic Boby as well – but alas – the journey had to move on somewhere else. Should I be lucky enough to come back, I’d stay longer to hike Pic Body.
In this agricultural valley, it was wonderful to see women walking by with colorful dresses and hats, kids with backpacks going to school, boys with nets or buckets going fishing, red brick houses being built, men working the fields, herders walking their sheep, villagers carrying items they will trade between their two villages: Betsileo and Bara, locals swimming in cool water holes, and zebus or sheep roaming where there are no rice fields. There was always some type of activity no matter where I hiked.
From lush rainforests to sparse high-altitude windy grasslands, it encompasses a variety of ecosystems. This is where I saw the most ringtail lemurs in my travels throughout this wonderful country for over a month. Several plants were in bloom, my guide pointed out small cave like spaces within the rock formations where the herders spend their nights while taking care of their flocks.
I also saw several termite mounds broken open. People harvest the termites to feed their chicks as it is a good source of proteins. The termites can return and fix the mound if the food, humidity, and shelter conditions are still good. People who collect the termites know that and don’t seem to damage the mounds too extensively in hopes the termites return and rebuild them.
When entering the park portion of the valley, we had to stop at an office where you get a guide – they seem to rotate the guides so that everyone has a chance to earn a living. You don’t really get to choose one. When I left for my hike, an additional ‘guide’ suddenly started tagging along offering to carry my backpack. He was quickly rebuffed by my own guide (not the park guide) for doing so and he then disappeared.
I had hope to meet the man who helped reforest this valley (Gilles Gauthier - a famous climber/guide in the area), but he had just passed away. I was looking at some of the seedlings popping up near the trails to help reforest while teaching the locals about sustainability. Many of the endemic tree seedlings were dead or stunted so I don’t know how many of the over 700,000 seedlings (so I read but can’t confirm) planted will eventually make it. Still a wonderful endeavor that his kids are continuing.
Upon my early morning departure, the now pink mountains were shrouded in fog - it was surreal and jaw dropping to see the colors change as the sun was rising. Superb. Beautiful, though not easy to access, a place not to miss in my books. Enjoy!
翻译:这里就是我攀登变色龙峰的地方,目的是为了欣赏下方广袤的察拉诺罗山谷中那些色彩与纹理交织而成的绝美景象。
徒步起点处的指示牌上写着全程需要六个小时,于是我便在心里做好了这样的心理准备,尽管对前方的路况一无所知。我的向导通加是个非常年轻的男子,但他对沿途的植物、动物以及路线都了如指掌。这条路线全长9.3公里,海拔上升高度为620米。我并非登山爱好者。不过我是一名体力不错的徒步爱好者(60多岁了),这次徒步穿越这片宛如月球表面的地带只用了不到三个小时——远远少于推荐的时长。
从那里看到的景色令人叹为观止,我真希望有时间也能登上著名的博比峰——可惜的是,我们不得不继续前往别处。如果还有机会再来,我一定会多待些时间去攀登博比峰。
在这片农业谷地中,能看到身着色彩鲜艳的裙子、戴着帽子的女士们漫步其中,真是赏心悦目。背着书包去上学的孩子们,拿着网或桶去钓鱼的男孩们,正在修建的红砖房屋,在田地里劳作的男人们,赶着羊群的牧民,还有肩负着要在两个村庄——贝齐莱奥村和巴拉村之间进行交易的物品的村民们;当地人则在清凉的水潭中游泳,而在没有稻田的地方则可见水牛或绵羊在闲逛。无论我走到哪里,总能看到各种活动正在进行。
从茂密的热带雨林到人烟稀少、狂风呼啸的高海拔草地。这里拥有多种多样的生态系统。在我在这个美丽的国度里旅行的一个多月时间里,我在这里看到了最多的环尾狐猴。当时有不少植物正在开花;我的向导还指给我看岩石群中那些类似小洞穴的空隙,牧民们照顾羊群时便会在那里过夜。
我还看到了好几个被撬开的白蚁丘。人们会采集白蚁来喂养雏鸟,因为白蚁是优质的蛋白质来源。如果食物、湿度和庇护条件仍然良好,白蚁就会重新回来并修复蚁丘。采集白蚁的人也明白这一点,因此他们通常不会过度破坏蚁丘,希望白蚁能重新返回并重建它们。
进入山谷中的公园区域时,我们必须在办公室稍作停留以安排向导——他们似乎会轮换安排向导,好让每个人都有机会谋生。实际上游客并不能自行选择向导。当我准备开始徒步时,这时,又有个“向导”突然出现,主动提出要帮我背背包。不过他很快就被我的向导(不是公园的向导)拒绝了,之后便不见了踪影。
我原本希望能见到那位帮助这片山谷重新造林的人——吉尔斯·戈蒂埃,他是当地著名的登山者兼向导。可惜他刚刚去世。我当时正看着小径旁冒出的那些幼树,它们正是用于重新造林的,同时我也在向当地人传授可持续发展的知识。许多本地树种的幼苗已经枯死或发育不良,因此我不确定在种植的70多万株幼苗中,最终能存活多少株(这个数字是我看到的,但无法证实)。不过,他的孩子们仍在继续这项了不起的事业,实在值得称赞。
清晨出发时,原本呈粉红色的群山被雾气笼罩。随着太阳升起,山峦的色彩不断变幻,景象极为梦幻且令人惊叹。真是绝妙至极。这个地方美丽非凡,只是不易抵达;但在我心中,它绝对是个不容错过的胜地。尽情享受吧!