点评:We ascended Pantokrator, and also descended, via the north coast of Corfu, specifically from Acharavi, assuming the road would be less steep (though longer). This allowed us to traverse a picturesque, secluded, and gently undulating hilly region, which greatly added to the charm of the trip.
As we ascend in altitude, the landscape changes dramatically. At the end of the route, the summit of Pantokrator emerges clearly from the surrounding hills, almost pyramid-like, devoid of trees, despite its relatively low altitude (under 1,000 meters) and despite the fact that Corfu is usually covered with lush vegetation up to the summits, thanks in part to abundant rainfall.
The explanation for this phenomenon lies largely in the area's geomorphology. From the view from the last and highest point of the trail, and from the one looking down from the summit, the limestone nature of the rocks is evident, intensely fissured and — from what I read after my visit — unusually rich in sinkholes. This results in weak surface water circulation, but conversely, high underground circulation; as well as a strong relief, visible not only from the summit but also from the steep cliffs of the massif facing south.
It's pointless, I believe, to dwell on the beauty of the view from the summit, given its isolation. Nor is it pointless to dwell on the pylons that occupy the summit, or even the courtyard of the monastery of the same name.
This monastery, like many other buildings on the island, was destroyed following the deadly Ottoman invasion of 1537. What survived, or what was added later, is worth a thorough visit.
翻译:我们沿着科孚岛的北海岸攀登帕ントクロ拉托尔山,具体是从阿查拉维出发的。我们原以为这条路线虽然路程更长,但坡度会较缓。结果我们得以穿行在一片风景如画、人迹罕至且地势起伏平缓的丘陵地带,这为整个旅程增添了无数乐趣。
随着海拔不断升高,周围的景色也发生了巨大变化。在路线的尽头,帕ントクロ拉托尔山的山顶从周围的群山中赫然显现出来,它几乎呈金字塔形状,上面没有一棵树。尽管其海拔相对较低(不到1000米),而且由于降雨充沛,科孚岛的大部分地区直至山顶都覆盖着茂密的植被。
这一现象的成因主要在于该地区的地貌特征。从这条步道的终点及最高点俯瞰,或者从山顶往下看,都能明显看出岩石的石灰岩属性。地表裂缝众多,而且——根据我游览后读到的资料——那里的天坑也异常丰富。这就导致了地表水循环缓慢,但地下水流却十分活跃;此外,地势也极为起伏,这一点不仅从山顶可以观察到,从朝南的陡峭山崖上也能清晰看到。
鉴于山顶的与世隔绝,我认为再赘述从那里看到的景色之美也毫无意义。不过,谈论那些矗立在山顶上的塔柱倒也并非毫无意义。甚至还有同名修道院的庭院。
这座修道院与岛上的许多其他建筑一样,在1537年奥斯曼帝国的入侵中遭到破坏。不过,留存下来的部分或后来重建的部分也值得细细游览。