点评:An interesting and highly illuminating visit, although perhaps not entirely in the way intended.
We took the guided tour of Ernő Goldfinger’s home at 2 Willow Road and came away with a strong sense of the very particular Hampstead world in which Ernő and Ursula Goldfinger lived. They struck me as archetypal champagne Marxists: comfortably ensconced within a self-created bubble of avant-garde artists, intellectuals and left-wing idealism, while seemingly rather removed from the everyday lives of the working-class people for whom Goldfinger would later design social housing.
The house itself reinforces that impression. Much of the furniture is Bauhaus-derived and the art collection is fascinating, although overwhelmingly austere and often monochromatic. Indeed, I found the entire house surprisingly devoid of colour, warmth or any real sense of domestic charm. Goldfinger's politics and aesthetics both seemed, quite literally and metaphorically, rather black and white.
The tour itself was informative and our guide certainly gave us plenty to think about. However, I was disappointed that we were not shown the whole property. The lower levels, garden and garage were excluded, and particularly frustrating was the inability to see the building properly from the rear. For a property being visited principally because of its architecture, being unable to appreciate the complete building and its relationship with the garden seems a considerable omission.
The visit also left me reflecting on Goldfinger's reputation. For many people his name probably became far more widely known through Ian Fleming's choice of it for his Bond villain than through architecture. There were, after all, numerous much less celebrated architects and practices designing substantial quantities of social housing during the same period, much of which remains standing and occupied today.
Perhaps the most revealing episode in Goldfinger's career was his eight-week residence with Ursula in Balfron Tower in Poplar. That relatively brief experiment in actually living among the people for whom he was designing — complete with champagne gatherings for residents — rather underlines the social distance that struck me so strongly at Willow Road.
So, certainly worth visiting if you have an interest in Modernism, architecture or the intellectual world of pre- and post-war Hampstead. But as a National Trust visitor experience I found it average rather than exceptional. Opening up the entire property, particularly the lower floor and garden, would make the visit considerably more complete and worthwhile.
翻译:这是一次有趣且极具启发性的参观,不过或许并非完全符合预期的那样。
我们参加了由导游带领的行程,参观了欧内斯特·戈德芬格位于柳树路2号的住宅,由此对欧内斯特与乌苏拉·戈德芬格所生活的那个极具特色的汉普斯特德圈子有了深刻印象。在我看来,他们堪称典型的“香槟马克思主义者”:安然置身于由先锋艺术家、知识分子以及左翼理想主义者构成的自成体系的圈子中。虽然它看起来与那些后来由戈德法伯设计社会住房的普通劳动阶层的日常生活相去甚远。
这栋房子本身也强化了这种印象。大部分家具都带有包豪斯风格的影子,其艺术收藏也颇具吸引力,不过整体风格极为简朴,且多为单色系。事实上,我觉得整栋房子出奇地缺乏色彩、温馨感以及任何真正的居家魅力。戈德法伯的政治观点与审美取向似乎都如此。无论从字面意义还是比喻意义上来说,情况都相当非黑即白。
这次参观很有启发性,导游也确实让我们思考了很多。不过,没能参观整个庄园让我有些失望。低层区域、花园和车库都未被纳入参观范围,最令人沮丧的是我们根本无法从背后好好观赏这座建筑。对于一座主要因建筑风格而备受瞩目的庄园而言,这实在是遗憾。无法领略这座建筑的完整风貌及其与花园之间的关系,这显然是一大遗憾。
这次参观还让我对戈德法因德的声誉产生了思考。对很多人来说,他的名字之所以广为人知,或许更多是因为伊恩·弗莱明选用它来命名《邦德》系列小说中的反派角色,而非由于他的建筑成就。毕竟,在同一时期还有许多名气小得多的建筑师及事务所也设计了大量社会住房。如今,其中大部分建筑仍屹立不倒,且有人居住。
或许戈德芬格生涯中最能发人深省的一段经历,就是他在波普拉的巴尔弗伦塔楼里与乌苏拉共同度过的八周时光。这段相对短暂的体验——他真正与自己所设计的那些人同住在一起,甚至还为住户们举办香槟聚会——恰恰凸显了我在威洛路所深切感受到的那种社会隔阂。
因此,如果你对现代主义感兴趣,这里绝对值得一游。这里的建筑风格以及战前战后汉普斯蒂德的知识分子文化氛围固然值得称道。不过作为国家信托基金会的参观项目,我觉得它只能算平平无奇,算不上出色。如果能向游客开放整个庄园,尤其是底层和花园,这次参观体验将会更加完整且值得一去。