点评:We wanted to do the Kumano Kodo as the Santiago de Compestela route was pretty motivating and spiritual. We received our certificate in June 2025 in that city and planned to do a 2 day 3 night pilgrimage with a 37km walk from Takiri-oji to Hongu Taisha shrine with a night stopover at Kii Tanabe, Chikatsuyu and Ryokan Yunomine . We planned to do this 3 days after hiking up and down Mt Fuji. Unfortunately, the weather ruined or degraded our planned itinerary. (read my reviews on Mt Fuji).
When we took the train to Kii Tanabe, the remnants of Typhoon 24 in Sept 2026 caused massive rainfall and record breaking flooding on the route there. Our train was delayed by up to 30 minutes and trains were suspended for up to 5hours. When we reach Kii Tanabe, the rain di not let up and we were forced to truncate our 37km route to a 7.5km route hike on the first day and to take a local kumano sanzen bus tour to visit the 3 sacred shrines in order to still qualify for the dual pilgimage certificate. We had to cut our route short as 3 days of heavy rain has increased the risk of landslides and flooding as well as continuous heavy rain. We were heavily drenched and our hiking clothes and backpacks and boots were also completely soaked from the mt Fuji hike affected by the same typhoon. Hence to err on the side of safety, we took the safer and shorter journey as it was accessible, on flatter ground and near emergency facilities. The 7.5km hike was pleasant as the scenery was great. The photos do justice to the beauty of the site. It was a pity that we could not enjoy the other 30km walking hike but the weather was not ideal. On the second day, we took a Kumano Sanzen bus tour to visit the 3 required sites. At 2 of the 3 sites, it started to rain moderately which helped to justify not doing the hike through the forest. On the last day, we reeived our dual pilgrimage certificate at the Kii Tanabe Tourist office.
It was a pity that we could not do Kumano Kodo completely, but it was a good experience to enjoy Japanese rural setting and hospitality. Would i visit kumano koda again- probably not as it did not feel that spiritual compared to Camino but we are catholics and not shinto, so that could explain it. I feel that if i want to visit this site- the dry season of March/April or the Autumn period of Nov/Dec are better. This is one of the wettest place in Japan, so plan accordingly.
翻译:我们本想走熊野古道,因为圣地亚哥朝圣之路给我们带来了极大的动力与精神上的鼓舞。2025年6月,我们在圣地亚哥领取了朝圣证书。我们原计划进行一次为期2天3夜的朝圣之旅:从泷入王子神社出发,步行37公里抵达本宫大社,途中会在纪伊田边、七里和汤之峰旅馆各停留一晚。这次行程原定于我们登顶富士山后的第三天进行。可惜,恶劣的天气破坏了我们的原计划。(可参阅我关于攀登富士山的评论。)当我们乘坐火车前往纪伊田边时,2026年9月肆虐的24号台风残余势力导致沿途出现大量降雨,并引发了创纪录的洪水。我们的火车延误了多达30分钟,其他列车则停运了约5个小时。抵达纪伊田边后,雨势丝毫未减,我们不得不将原本37公里的行程缩短为7公里。第一天进行了5公里的徒步路线,为了仍能获得双重朝圣证书,我们还乘坐当地的熊野三山巴士游览,参观了三座神圣的神社。但由于连续三天的暴雨引发了山体滑坡和洪水的风险,我们不得不缩短行程。我们全身都被淋透,而由于同样受台风影响,我们在富士山徒步时所穿的衣物、背包和靴子也完全湿透了。因此,为了安全起见,我们才做出了这样的决定。我们选择了一条更安全且更短的路线,因为这条路较为平坦,也靠近应急设施,易于行走。这段7.5公里的徒步过程十分愉快,沿途风景优美。照片也很好地展现了此地的绝美风光。很可惜的是,由于天气不佳,我们没能完成剩下的30公里徒步行程。第二天,我们参加了熊野三山巴士游,参观了规定的三个圣地。在其中的两个地点……开始下起了中雨,这也成了我们放弃徒步穿越森林的理由。最后一天,我们在纪伊田边旅游服务中心领到了双重朝圣证书。
很遗憾没能走完整个熊野古道,但能领略日本的乡村风光并体验当地人的热情好客也是一段不错的经历。我还会再去熊野古道吗?大概不会了,因为与圣地亚哥朝圣之路相比,这里给我的灵性体验感没那么强。不过我们是天主教徒而非神道信徒,这或许可以解释这种差异吧。我觉得如果想游览这个地方,3月/4月的旱季或者11月/12月的秋季更为合适。这里是日本降雨最多的地区之一,因此请做好相应规划。