点评:We were in Rome in July for six days, and on our last day (July 27, 2026) we decided to explore the Appian Way. We took the 218 bus to Porta San Sebastiano, which is the official start of the Appian Way (Via Appia Antica), and got off the bus. In hindsight, this was mistake #1. We should have stayed on the bus and gone farther, ideally to one of the catacomb stops.
While Porta San Sebastiano is technically the start of the Appian Way, this stretch is still heavily used by cars today and is not what most people picture when imagining the ancient road. We walked along this dangerous section for a few miles (not recommended) until we reached a spot where you can rent bikes. There, we got better instructions and were told to get back on the bus and go two stops farther to the Basilica of St. Sebastian and the catacombs—much closer to the picturesque part of the Appian Way. There were still a few cars on this section, but taxis don’t go much farther.
We were there on a Monday (mistake #2)—the catacombs, most other Appian Way sites, and most restaurants along the road were closed. Definitely bring snacks and water.
We walked along the famous part of the Appian Way and saw many mausoleums. It’s best to get a map from the bike rental shop if they can spare one, as it explains what you’ll see as you walk or bike. Be prepared for restoration work on many of the mausoleums, so you may need to “Magic Erase” scaffolding out of your photos to get the shots you want.
We walked to the first major intersection, where there was a nasoni (water fountain) across the street—yes! We turned left and followed Via di Tor Carbone to find a bus stop for the 118 back to the Colosseum. We ended up walking all the way to Via Appia Pignatelli, where we finally found the stop for our bus.
Note: The Appian Way is cool to see once. Riding a bike would be marginally easier, but it’s a very bumpy ride; we saw several people walking their bikes because the large cobbles and stones are tough to navigate.
So… my recommendation is to take a taxi or Uber to the Basilica of St. Sebastian and the catacombs (or as far as they’re willing to take you) and start exploring from there. Don’t go on a Monday. Take snacks and have fun. There were a few nasoni along the way—Rome’s ubiquitous water is the best.
翻译:我们于7月在罗马停留了六天。最后一天(2026年7月27日),我们决定去游览阿皮亚古道。我们乘坐218路巴士到达圣塞巴斯蒂安门,那里正是阿皮亚古道的起点(Via Appia Antica),随后我们下了车。现在回想起来,这是我们犯的第一个错误。我们本应继续坐巴士前行,最好能到达那些靠近地下墓穴的站点。
虽然从技术层面上讲,圣塞巴斯蒂安门确实是阿皮亚古道的起点。如今,这段路仍然有大量汽车通行,它并非大多数人想象中古道的模样。我们沿着这段险峻的路段走了几英里(不建议这么做),直到来到一个可以租用自行车的地方。在那里,我们得到了更详细的指引:要乘回巴士,再坐两站即可抵达圣塞巴斯蒂安大教堂和地下墓穴——那里离阿皮亚古道风景优美的区段要近得多。这段路上仍然有几辆汽车驶过。不过出租车也开不了太远。
我们是在周一去的(错误#2)——地下墓穴、阿皮亚大道上的大多数景点以及沿路的餐馆都闭门谢客。一定要带上零食和水。
我们沿着阿皮亚大道上著名的路段行走,看到了许多陵墓。如果自行车租赁店有地图的话,最好去领一份,因为上面会标注出步行或骑车时能看到的景点。另外,要提前做好心理准备:很多陵墓都正在进行修复工作。因此,你可能需要使用“魔法擦除”功能来去除照片中的脚手架,这样才能拍到自己想要的画面。
我们走到第一个主要十字路口,发现街道对面有个纳索尼喷泉——太好了!我们向左转,沿着托尔·卡尔博内路前行,试图找到118路公交车的站台以便返回斗兽场。最后我们一路走到了阿皮亚·皮尼亚泰利路,才终于找到了我们要搭乘的公交车站。
注:阿皮亚大道值得去一看。如果骑自行车的话,路程会稍微轻松一些。不过这段路程相当崎岖不平;我们看到好几个人推着自行车走,因为那些大鹅卵石和石块实在很难行走。
所以……我的建议是乘坐出租车或Uber前往圣塞巴斯蒂安大教堂及地下墓穴(或者坐到司机愿意送你到达的最远地点),然后从那里开始游览。切记不要选周一去哦。带上零食,尽情享受吧。沿途还有几处“纳索尼”饮水处——罗马随处可见的免费饮用水真是太棒了。